Best Bow Stringer
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By James Holbert · Explained Archery
Buy a pocket-and-saddle bow stringer unless your bow has unusual limb tips, in which case buy a double-pocket. Either one costs a fraction of a replacement limb and is the safe way to string a recurve or longbow. The step-through and push-pull hand methods twist limbs and put a limb tip beside your face, which is why most bow makers tell you to use a stringer and many exclude hand-stringing damage from the warranty.
Quick answer
| Your bow | Buy | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Takedown recurve | Pocket and saddle | The saddle lies flat on the upper limb and leaves the string groove clear |
| One-piece recurve | Pocket and saddle | Same reason, and it is what most makers supply |
| Longbow | Double pocket, longer cord | A longbow is longer and the tips are often too narrow for a saddle |
| Narrow or unusual limb tips | Double pocket | A saddle will not sit flat and can slip under load |
| Compound bow | Neither | A compound needs a bow press, not a stringer |
If you are buying your first recurve, buy the stringer at the same time. Do not plan to string it once without one.
The two types, and which to buy
Pocket and saddle
A cup at one end goes over the lower limb tip, and a wide rubber block at the other lies flat on the face of the upper limb below the tip. Because nothing covers the upper tip, the string groove stays clear while you slide the loop into place with your free hand. This is the type most takedown recurves ship with, and the one to buy if you are unsure.
Double pocket
A cup at each end. It suits bows where a saddle will not sit flat, including many longbows and limbs with narrow or sharply recurved tips. The only trick is to slide the top cup on above the string loop, so the loop can still move up the limb while the stringer holds the load.
| Type | Best on | Strength | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pocket and saddle | Most recurves, takedown and one piece | Leaves the upper groove clear, easy one-handed loop work | The saddle must sit flat and centered, not on the edge |
| Double pocket | Longbows, narrow or unusual tips | Grips both tips positively | The top cup must go on above the string loop |
Both types work the same way: the cord takes the limb load so your hands only have to move the string.
How to choose one
- Match the cord length to the bow. A stringer sized for a 62-inch recurve is awkward on a 70-inch longbow. If you own both, buy the longer one or buy two.
- Check the pocket depth. A shallow cup can slip off a limb tip under load, which is one of the failures that actually hurts people.
- Look at the saddle size. A wide block spreads the load across the limb face. A narrow one can dig in on thin limbs.
- Prefer a thick, non-stretch cord. A stretchy cord makes the lift feel vague and lets the bow move while you are working.
- Ignore the brand name. This is a commodity. A well-made cheap stringer and an expensive one do the same job.
Whichever you buy, how to string a recurve bow has the step-by-step method, and how to unstring a recurve bow covers taking it back off.
Why not just use your hands?
The two hand methods are the step-through, where you step between the string and the riser and bend the bow across the back of your leg, and the push-pull, where you brace the lower tip against your foot and push the upper limb away. Both work. Both also cause most of the limb damage and a fair share of the facial injuries in archery.
| Hand method | What goes wrong | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Step-through | The limb is loaded through one edge, not evenly | Limb twist, which throws arrows off line and can end in limb failure |
| Push-pull | Your face sits directly above a loaded limb tip | A slipped loop sends the tip at your head |
| Either method | Most makers exclude the damage | A warranty claim refused on a limb you could have protected for very little |
If you are ever forced to hand-string, do it only on a light solid-fiberglass youth bow, pull straight along the limb, and keep your face clear of the tip. On laminated or carbon limbs, buy the stringer.
Using a stringer safely
- Seat each pocket fully onto the tip before you lift, and check the saddle is centered
- Keep your face out of line with both limb tips the whole time
- Lift smoothly with the riser, never with a jerk
- Confirm both string loops sit in their grooves on both edges before the stringer goes slack
- Check the cord and the pockets for wear before each session and replace a frayed stringer
- Never dry fire the bow to test it after stringing
The stringer is one of the cheapest pieces of archery equipment you own and the one most likely to save a limb or an eye.
Related guides
Stringing, brace height and the rest of a recurve setup.
Frequently asked questions
Short answers to the questions people ask before buying a bow stringer.
What is the best bow stringer?
A pocket-and-saddle stringer for almost every recurve, and a double-pocket for longbows or bows with narrow limb tips. It is a commodity item, so build quality and cord length matter more than the brand.
Do I really need a bow stringer?
Yes for any recurve or longbow you care about. Hand methods load the limb unevenly and twist it, and most makers exclude that damage from the warranty.
What is the difference between a pocket and saddle and a double pocket stringer?
A pocket-and-saddle has a cup at one end and a flat rubber block at the other, leaving the upper string groove clear. A double-pocket has a cup at both ends and suits longbows and narrow tips.
Can you use a bow stringer on a longbow?
Yes, usually a double-pocket with a longer cord. Check the cord suits the bow's length, because a stringer sized for a 62-inch recurve is awkward on a longbow.
Do compound bows need a bow stringer?
No. A compound is worked on in a bow press, not with a stringer, and that is shop equipment unless you have been shown how on your model.
How long does a bow stringer last?
Years with light use. Replace it when the cord frays or a pocket loses its shape, because a pocket that slips under load can injure you.
Which end of the stringer goes where?
The cup goes over the lower limb tip, on top of the small string loop. The saddle or second cup goes on the upper limb, above where the large loop sits so the loop can slide.
References
These sources support the stringing method and safety guidance on this page.